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 Living With Wildlife

Hundreds of different species of animals coexist in the hillsides and open fields of our communities.  As we bulldoze and cement these areas to make room for more homes and bigger roads, animals of all types-skunks, raccoons, opossums, feral cats, mice, foxes, and dozens more are displaced and involuntarily forced to live among us.  As a result, animals must find their meals in our garbage cans, raise their litters in our backyards, and mate outside our windows while we are trying to sleep.

As they spill over into our neighborhoods in search of food, frightened by cars and dazed by lights, they end up in our yards and basements where, out of fear and ignorance or for the sake of convenience, we have them trapped and killed, or lay out poisons.  It is a tragic story of blaming the victims.  It is time we lived peacefully with this new wave of “legal” immigrants.  With a little patience, a good dose of compassion, old-fashioned common sense, and a few simple and non-lethal tricks, you will be able to keep your garden intact, the garbage lid on, and get a good night’s sleep.

The Cruelty Of Poisons

The most popular method of poisoning preferred by exterminator companies, is the use of anticoagulants.  These toxins cause internal hemorrhaging and take days to kill squirrels, and other animals.  Often the animals die of dehydration due to a loss of blood, or become unable to eat and slowly die of starvation.

But the victims of these insidious poisons are not just the animals who ingest them.  When the dead bodies of poisoned animals are eaten by other animals, such as birds of prey, the toxin enters the food chain where it continues a cycle of misery and death for a variety of other animals.

Trapping: Anything But Humane

Trapping companies offer an alternative to poisons, but these services are also anything but humane.  Almost all wild animals that are trapped are immediately killed.  In Rhode Island it is illegal to relocate animals, and even if a member of the public traps and attempts to relocate an animal this too is often a death sentence.  Most habitat areas are already providing sustenance for as many creatures as can be supported by the limited food and living space.  A foreign raccoon, opossum, or skunk does not stand a chance of assimilating into the area.  Many relocated animals become nomads, traveling endlessly on the brink of starvation looking for available space to feed and sleep.  In fact, relocated raccoons have been tracked traveling well over 100 miles from their release sites, unable to settle into any unfamiliar territory for very long.  Almost half of all raccoons who are trapped and relocated die within the first three months.  Many are now familiar sights on our freeways and roads, having been crushed under the wheels of cars while searching for a place to call home.

Compassion through Education

Misinformation and our own lack of knowledge about the temperament, nature, and needs of urbanized wildlife has led to exaggerated fears, particularly of disease, and subsequently to much unnecessary animal suffering.  Fortunately, there is no need to resort to painful traps or deadly poisons in our encounters with wild animals.  We can, with little effort, learn to peacefully coexist.  In fact, armed with some basic knowledge about their habits and little ingenuity, we can outsmart these sometimes-pesky critters without bringing harm upon them, nor guilt upon our consciences. 

Live and Let Live

For starters, relax!  A raccoon running through your yard or a fox foraging on your deck is not a call to arms.  Do not overreact by assuming that a wild animal in the vicinity is a threat to pets or property.   In the vast majority of cases, such animals are gentle, utterly harmless, and likely just passing through.  Indeed, most wild animals who have not been desensitized through close contact and feeding are genuinely afraid of humans and will keep their distance.  More progressive wildlife rehabilitation centers will also tell you that we have little to fear from most skunks, raccoons, and other wild animals.  More people die each year in the United States from being hit by lightening than from contracting rabies from wild animals.

Furthermore, the animals are not with us out of choice.  Killing them is no answer.  And by shooing them away, we force them to move on to other areas in search of food and shelter, where most will become the victims of further abuse or will simply die in other ways.  Remember, a neighbor down the road, the next stop for these animals, may be less compassionate than you.  If you can consider picking up your toppled garbage cans a small price to pay for compassion, good for you!  But even if you choose to live peacefully with these critters, you should avoid close contact or regular feeding, as this will create dependence and desensitize wildlife to humans, leading to tragedy in future.  In addition, as the animals reproduce, they will stay in the area because you are feeding them, and will quickly overcome the natural sustainable numbers that can peacefully coexist in the area. 

If, however, you are truly experiencing an ongoing wildlife conflict which is too much for you or your family to handle, rest assured that there is a way to resolve your problems without resorting to warfare.  As with most things, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  There are a few basic and simple things you can do to eliminate the attractions which brought the animals to your home in the first place. 

Animal-proofing with a Mirror and a Bungee Cord

As silly as it sounds, it is effective.  Animal proofing is fast becoming the preferred method of wildlife “control”, even among exterminator companies.  Why? Because it works!  Unlike trapping and the use of poisons, animal proofing is a safe and effective solution to human/wildlife conflicts.  By eliminating the attractions that bring animals to your home, and by erecting physical barriers, you can condition animals to stay away.

To effectively animal proof your home, you need to think like an animals.  Begin by taking a tour of your property to determine what aspects of it would be attractive to a fox, raccoon, skunk, or whatever animal it is you are trying to deter.  Are there any places an animal could enter and set up camp? 

Spend an afternoon and take a good look at your home from top to bottom: Get down on all fours and look for holes leading into crawl spaces, and climb a ladder – notice any tree limbs in need of trimming which allow easy access to your roof?  Any holes in your attic?  Take steps to seal these spots with strong, durable materials such as wire mesh.  Mice and bats can enter a home from a crack as small as one-fourth of an inch wide!  Silicone caulk is a great space filler in such circumstances.  And ammonia-soaked rags or steel wool shoved inside holes and crevices are harmless but effective deterrents as well. 

No Food Means No Critters

Have you unwittingly created a take-out eatery by leaving food and food scraps accessible outdoors?  Be sure your garbage can lids are on tight.  Raccoons are strong and remarkably dexterous, so secure your can with a bungee cord if necessary.  Recyclables should be clean and rinsed thoroughly of food deposits and smells.  And because raccoons, opossums, and skunks are nocturnal and forage for food at night, pet food should always be brought in at dusk. 

Scaring them away with Scarecrows

Conditioning animals to stay away is often as easy as using the timeless method of scaring them with scarecrows.  Mirrors are also good visual repellents, as they tend to lead animals to believe others are already occupying the area.  Strips of foil, balloons, kites, or hanging pie tins are other types of cheap and effective visual deterrents.  If scaring them by sight doesn’t work, try using noisemakers, such as wind chimes or portable radios. 

Guarding the Garden

Gardens offer an irresistible treat to deer, rabbits, and other herbivores.  But if sharing the fruit of your labor with a feasting animal is not for you, you can deter much of the unwanted scavenging by taking a little care when planting and building a garden.

Erecting a fence around a garden is the best and most popular method of keeping animals away from your squash or dahlias.  Bird netting, a ready-made barrierconstructed of weatherproof synthetic fiber, is fairly inexpensive and widely available.

When planting your garden, don’t plant all the petunias together in one spot, creating a big and easily located target.  Spread them around.  By hiding your parsley in your roses, or tucking a petunia behind a marigold (which tastes and smells yucky!), you can confuse the critters.  If that doesn’t work, sprinkling cayenne pepper on your plants is a harmless but effective way to condition animals to avoid your property. 

Learning to Coexist

Where will they go when condos are built in the fields they once lived in?  Where will they bear their young when the brush that was once so hospitable is paved over to make more stores?  Where will they eat when the meadows are leveled to build more shops, bigger roads, and room for more traffic lights?  What will happen to the rabbits and opossums and raccoons and the countless other animals that are displaced as humans encroach on and destroy the lands they considered home? 

When that happens, they have no choice but to try to live among us, sleeping in our crawl spaces, mating outside the windows, foraging for food in our yards.  The vast majority will die, finding themselves no match for the human society thrust upon them.  Others will involuntarily become “urban” wildlife, trying to stay one step ahead of the cars, the traps, the poisons, and the host of other man-made dangers. 

As we have entered the 21^st Century, our hopes for a peaceful and harmonious future must include a gentler relationship with animals.  A simple and yet important way we can do this is to treat them with compassion whenever and wherever we encounter them.

After all, it’s their world too.  

Humane Bird Deterrents 

Birds, long considered a symbol of peace, are intelligent, adaptable creatures.  Many birds mate for life, and both the male and female are generally protective and affectionate with each other and their young.  Take the time to watch, and you will notice their fascinating preening and courtship rituals. 

Watching birds is a relaxing and enjoyable pastime for many people.  But for those who wish to discourage birds from roosting or nesting on their homes or buildings, there are many humane solutions. 

Barriers

·   Bird netting can be used to block access to nooks and crannies where birds like to roost.  Netting is available at some stores and through a company called Birdbarrier (800-503-5444).  It comes in a variety of sizes for different types of birds.  Many experts consider netting to be the best barrier available.

·   Bird Wire consists of parallel strands of wire strung between pegs of various heights, preventing the birds from landing.  It is also available from Birdbarrier.

·   If birds are landing on a railing or a narrow ledge, secure a stretched out Slinky toy or other wire coil.  The birds cannot land on it.

·   Cover the ledge with a board slanted at an angle greater than 45 degrees—the birds cannot keep their footing, and will stop landing there.

·   Some buildings may be glazed with a coating that dries to a hard, slippery finish. (Not to be confused with sticky gel products).  Check with painters or building contractors. 

Deterrents

·   Wind chimes

·   White balloons can be painted with black concentric circles to look lie the eyes of predators, frightening birds away.  “Scary Eye” balloons can be purchased at hardware stores and through Birdbarrier.  Mylar balloons may also be effective.

·   Garbage can liners cut in strips can be hung around the area you wish to protect.

·   Hang strips of mylar flash tape on plants, trees, and ledges.  Its holographic pattern reflects flashes of light and prevents birds from landing.

·   Silhouettes of hawks can be placed in windows, on roofs, and other locations to scare birds away.

·   A motion-activated sprinkler that sprays water at intruding animals is manufactured by Contech  (800-767-8658), 

Ideas that do not work

·   Killing or trapping wild birds is generally against the law.  It is also ineffective since the reason for the animals’ presence remains – e.g. habitat, food source, etc.

·   Sticky gel repellent can glue birds’ feathers together, causing them to lose body heat and die of cold, or plummet to the ground, unable to fly.  Wildlife rehabilitation centers report receiving many birds every year covered by the gel.  Sticky gel repellent is also ineffective because it quickly becomes covered in debris or washes away in rain.

·   Sharpened metal spikes in some cases may accidentally cause birds to be impaled. 

Nesting birds

State and federal laws restrict disturbing or destroying certain birds’ nests.  Before beginning any bird proofing, be sure that there are no active nests.  Birds become fully independent of their parents in approximately 4 to 6 weeks. 

 Humane Mouse & Rat Deterrents 

Mice and rats are intelligent, adaptable creatures capable of surviving in virtually any landscape – a quality surprisingly few animals share.  Rats and mice are nocturnal, generally shy away from people, and are social with their own kind. 

For those attempting to minimize contact with wildlife, it is important (and easy) to use humane methods.  Devices such as glue traps, snapping traps, and poison can cause terrible suffering to both the intended and unintended victims, such as other wildlife, children, or pets.  And as long as conditions are favorable, removing one animal merely makes room for another to move in.  Trapping and killing wave after wave of newcomers, therefore, is both inhumane and ineffective.  Humane animal proofing is now widely considered to be the most effective and long lasting solution to excluding mice and rats from our dwellings. 

Prevention

·   Do not leave out any food.  Store food in sealed containers or in the refrigerator.  Clean up all spills – even a few grains of rice can feed a mouse.  Clean your pet’s bowl as soon as she is finished eating.

·   Be sure your compost bin is a “rodent-proof” model.

·   Do not allow thick patches of ivy or other foliage to grow too close to the sides of your home.

·   Do not store old clothes, books, or papers in bags or cardboard boxes.  Sell or donate items you no longer need and store the rest in sealed plastic bins.

·   Seal up any holes leading from the outside of your home to the inside.  Check under the dishwasher, behind the stove, under the sink and under cabinets. 

Deterrents

Effective deterrents encourage animals to leave on their own, often eliminating the need to humanely trap.  Use these methods before you start working on proofing, so animals are not stuck inside your house: 

·   The most effective deterrent is cleanliness.  Cleaning with a dilute bleach solution will eliminate scent trails.  If mice are in the kitchen, don’t forget to clean under your stove and refrigerator.

·   Place cat hair around entry holes.  Collect if from friends who have cats or a groomer in your neighborhood.  It really works!

·   Rats and mice are also repelled by pure peppermint oil. 

Exclusion

It is best to begin exclusion after you have started using deterrents.  If the animals’ entry hole does not lead outside but into a wall, be sure not to inadvertently wall up an animal.  Sprinkle a layer of talcum powder on the area directly outside the opening.  Once you see a set of footprints in the powder facing away from the opening, you know your tenant is out and about, and it is safe to proceed. 

·   Mice can fit through very small holes.  Common entry areas include holes or spaces around pipes under the sink, holes under the dishwasher, behind or under cabinets, and vents.

·   Purchase some metal hardware mesh, screening, or steel wool.  Secure the mesh across or stuff into the hole.  Cover with plaster or quick-drying cement.  Regular caulking or expanding foam caulk can be used in small or hard to reach places.

·   If mice are coming in under the doors, attach rubber or metal runners along the bottom for a tight fit.

·   If a rat is in an area where she can leave on her own, put something enticing outside the exit and block off the hole once she has left.

·   If you would rather have someone else do the above work, contact a professional proofer who uses non-lethal methods. 

Humane Trapping

While it may be tempting to humanely trap and release your unwanted guests outside, trapping should almost always be a last resort.  It can be disorienting, traumatic, and can break up families.  Besides, as long as conditions remain the same (e.g. holes under the sink, pet food left out, etc.) trapping one animal simply opens up space for another to move in.  For these reasons, we recommend trapping only after you have used deterrents and finished mouse proofing.  Humane traps are available at hardware stores and many natural food stores. 

·   Trapping will not be successful unless all other food sources are removed. Follow prevention and deterrent tips above.

·   Set the traps against walls in areas you suspect the mice or rats to be.  Use peanut butter, popcorn, or crackers for bait.

·   Check traps frequently, at least every few hours.  Do not leave traps unchecked for more than a few hours – trapped animals can die from fear, dehydration, or starvation.

·   Release in an appropriate area just outside the home or business.  Most mice who are relocated to parks, open fields, and/or other areas away from their trapping location do not survive, and don’t forget it is against the law to relocate a wild animal in Rhode Island.

·   Traps may be cleaned and reused. 

Ideas That Do Not Work

Killing does not work because it simply opens up a space for another animal to move in.  In addition, these methods can cause terrible pain and suffering to the intended and unintended victims such as wildlife, pets, and children. 

·   Rat and mouse poisons are usually anti-coagulants.  These toxins cause painful internal hemorrhaging and can take days to kill.

·   Sticky glue traps can cause and animal to tear off patches of skin or gnaw off a leg in their panic to escape.  Many will die slowly of hunger or thirst.  Others will suffocate when their faces become trapped in the glue.

·   Snapping traps may catch a leg, tail, or simply pin the frightened animal in place where she struggles to free herself before eventually dying of her injuries, dehydration, or starvation.

Humane Skunk & Raccoon Deterrents 

Hundreds of different species of animals coexist in the hillsides and open fields of our communities.  As we bulldoze and cement these areas to make room for more homes and bigger roads, animals of all types-skunks, raccoons, opossums, feral cats, mice, foxes, gophers, lizards, and dozens more – are displaced and involuntarily forced to live among us. 

It is time we lived peacefully with this new wave of “legal” immigrants.  With a little patience, a good dose of compassion, old-fashioned common sense, and a few simple and non-lethal tricks, you will be able to keep your garden intact, the garbage lid on, and get a good night’s sleep. 

How To Evict

·   Locate a skunk or raccoon’s entryways and close off all but one.  One exit must remain available for the skunk or raccoon to make his final getaway.  If you are unsure of the animal’s entryway, spread baking soda or cornstarch around likely places.  Skunks and raccoons are nocturnal and will leave tracks upon returning to their dens.  A skunk or raccoon living in your chimney will leave sooty paw prints on down spouts and trim.  Check for animal hairs on the edge of holes on roofs and foundations to determine their use as possible entryways and exits.

·   If the raccoon or skunk is living in the chimney, DO NOT SMOKE HER OUT.  Both adults and youngsters may die of smoke inhalation.

·   To eliminate the darkness favored by raccoons and skunks, light the den continuously.  A mechanic’s light or flashlight works well.

·   Disturb the den with noise during the day – such as a radio with music near the den entrance.

·   Dens under porches or stairs may be dampened (NOT FLOODED) with a hose at night when the animals are out. 

Infants in the Den – Special Considerations

·   Follow suggestions above but allow mothers to evacuate babies – this may take as long as a week.

·   Check the den each evening between 8-11 p.m.  When you are absolutely certain raccoons and skunks of all ages have departed, seal the remaining entryway.

·   NEVER APPROACH A DEN WHERE THE MOTHER IS PRESENT WITH HER YOUNG.  If feeling compelled to defend her offspring, a mother raccoon or skunk can be dangerous.  If the single remaining entryway to a den is closed off with the babies in it and the mother is absent, the mother will stop at nothing to return to the young.  She can cause severe damage to the building by chewing, clawing, and/or digging her way back to her babies.  In addition to the noise and destruction these activities cause, they are extremely inhumane.  If a mother is unsuccessful in returning to the den, the infant carcass can ultimately cause problems such as attracting rodents and other scavengers. 

 How To Discourage Raccoons and Skunks in and Around the Yard. 

·   If raccoons or skunks are digging up your lawn in pursuit of insects, spread cayenne pepper over the area and install several pinwheels to scare them.

·   If the unwanted raccoon or skunk crawls through grass, spray the grass lightly with vegetable oil.  The fastidious creatures do not like to get their coats oily.

·   Secure all garbage cans with “Bungee cords”.  And use metal garbage cans – they are impervious to chewing.  If possible, leave trashcans inside except on collection day.

·   Rubber snakes or 18 inch pieces of black hose placed near the area are effective because they capitalize on the raccoon/skunk’s fear of their natural predator. (Do not suspend rubber snakes from a roof or a tree, as snakes do not naturally hang).

·   Full ponds are very appealing to raccoons.  Further, a pond with fish is an open invitation to most wild animals.  Covering the pond with heavy gauge wire cloth may solve the problem.  Another possibility is to surround the pond in the evening with pinwheels or string with aluminum foil strips.  Remember that these are only suggestions.  The love affair raccoons have with ponds is a passionate one.

·   Bury several empty soda bottles (mouth up) in the ground.  As wind blows over them, they create an eerie sound inaudible to humans but very annoying to raccoons and skunks.

·   On nights when the moon is full, fill a large clear glass jar or jug with water and place it in the area favored by the raccoon or skunk.  Water reflected in moonlight frightens the normally bold raccoon.

·   Remove all pet food, especially at night.  If your neighbors are leaving pet food out as well, ask for their cooperation in this matter.

·   Wild animals are suspicious of moving things – from string or a clothing line strung along a fence, hang strips of cloth or aluminum foil.  These will frighten the animal and encourage her to leave the area.

·   Turn on spotlights at night.  Because they are nocturnal, raccoons and skunks will be both confused and annoyed.

·   Attach balloons to a fence; raccoons will be frightened of the movement.

·   If the raccoon or skunk is trapped in a dumpster or similar container, leave a large stick in the container as an exit.  Leave the area and then come back and check later to make sure the animal has climbed out. 

Prevention

·   Remove or cover possible food sources.  Seal food in tightly closed containers of glass or metal.

·   Screen all attic, porch, and foundation vents with heavy-duty wire mesh.

·   Professionally cap chimneys or cover with heavy gauge hardware cloth.

·   Hardware cloth bent into an “L” shape will discourage tunneling under repairs.

·   Close off passages to areas beneath porches or other crawl spaces.

·   Prune or remove tree limbs hanging over the building; cut back overgrown vines clinging to walls and eaves.

·    Use pet-doors at your own risk.  If conventional ones are used, bolt them tightly at night, or purchase an electronic pet-door, designed to open only for your pets.

·    Remove unnecessary outdoor clutter such as old newspaper, paper bags and woodpiles. 

Ideas that do no work

·   Trapping and killing skunks or raccoons is illegal in many communities. Trapping and killing is also ineffective since the reason for the animals’ presence remains – e.g. habitat, food source, etc.

·   Trapping and relocating skunks or raccoons is also often a death sentence for them, besides being illegal in Rhode Island.  Almost half of all raccoons who are relocated die within the first three months.  It is also ineffective since the reason for the animals’ presence remains – e.g. habitat, food source, etc. 

 How To Keep Cats Out of Your Yard 

All animals fill important roles in our environment, but if you want to keep cats out of your yard, there are many humane ways to deter them.  Keep in mind that what may work for one cat may not work for another, so it helps to be willing to try more than one solution. 

·   Cats dislike the smell of citrus: try putting orange or lemon peelings out: spraying the area with citrus-scented sprays; or sprinkling with an orange-scented pet bedding like Citrafresh.

·   Spray cat repellent (available at pet supply stores) around the perimeter of your yard and along the top of the fences.

·   Sprinkle cayenne pepper in the area you want to keep the cat away from.

·   Scatter coffee grounds or pipe tobacco in the area.

·   Try growing the herb Rue – cats dislike the smell.  You may also be able to buy it dried in health food stores.

·   A motion activated sprinkler that sprays intruding animals with water is manufactured by Contech (800.767.8658). 

 Woodchucks 

Woodchucks, also known as groundhogs, are familiar inhabitants of the Northeast. True hibernators, woodchucks retire to their dens for the entire winter.   

Woodchucks play an important role in the natural environment.  Because they live in a particular tunnel for only a few months before moving on to another, their abandoned burrows provide shelter and den sites for skunks, raccoons, foxes, opossums, weasels, and snakes.  These species in turn help control many insect and rodent species.  Woodchucks’ digging also provides aeration and mixing of the soil, which help in the creation of valuable topsoil.  Many people enjoy seeing woodchucks, one of the few large mammals visible during the day. 

Woodchucks tend to prefer “edge” habitat, where forest has been cleared or farming land fenced.  Unfortunately, this preference for human-created environments sometimes leads to conflicts.  Fortunately, it is both simple and effective to choose humane methods to deterring them: 

·   Use scarecrows and objects that move in the wind.  Silver mylar balloons, mylar tape, or suspended beach balls can work well.

·   A motion activated sprinkler that sprays intruding animals with water is available from Contech (800-767-8658).

·   The most permanent deterrent for gardens is fencing.  A 3-food high fence will keep out most animals.  If you make the fence out of chicken wire or mesh with wood stakes, it can help to stake it so that it’s wobbling will discourage him.

·   To prevent the woodchuck from digging under the fence, extend the mesh four inches down into the ground, and then bend it and extend the final 8-12 inches outward, away from the garden, in a “L”-shape which creates a false bottom (you can also put this mesh “flap” on top of the ground but be sure to secure it firmly with landscaping staples or the woodchuck will go under it).  When the woodchuck digs down and hits this mesh flap, he’ll think he can’t dig any farther and give up.

·   Removing grass cover and undergrowth around buildings will discourage burrowing. 

Avoiding Wildlife Accidents on The Road 

You see them every day, lying by the side of the freeway or in the middle of the road.  Broken and battered, these animals are the innocent victims of our dependence on cars.  Their deaths are made even more tragic by the fact that in many cases, they could have been prevented. 

As our cities and suburbs continue to expand and encroach on their habitats, highways, and byways become places to search for food and obstacles that must be crossed to reach water, a new home, or a mate. 

Studies show that over 100 million animals are killed by cars every year.  It is a shocking number, but one that can be reduced.  Animal-friendly public planning policies such as refraining from building in sensitive wildlife corridors, building tunnels underneath roads for animals to use and increasing mass transit would go a long way towards saving lives. 

But policies like these are only part of the solution.  The single most important thing each of us can do is to drive safely.  Many car accidents – including those with animals –involve excessive speed.  So the first “rule of the road” is to slow down.  And speeding is not only dangerous for people and animals, it doesn’t get you where you are going much faster:  on a 30 mile trip, you will arrive a mere five minutes earlier it you drive 65 mph instead of 55 mph. 

Just as drivers must share the road with bicyclists, motorcyclists, and pedestrians, we must remember that animals share our roads as well.  And because a ten-pound animal is no match for a car, it is up to us to watch out for them. 

Raccoons, skunks, and opossums are frequent victims because they can’t move quickly, they often have babies following them, and they may freeze or stand their ground in the face of danger – your oncoming headlights.  Cats may dart out after your headlights have passed - but before your car has.  And dogs will run onto the road without even noticing oncoming traffic. 

It’s a dangerous world out there, but with safety in mind and a willingness to be part of the solution, we can reduce the tragic toll on our nation’s roads. 

Keeping the Streets Safe for Animal Pedestrians 

1.  Slow down!  Never drive faster than the speed limit, and then drive only as fast as conditions safely allow.  Take into account factors like rain, fog, darkness, and visibility when deciding how fast you should go.  The faster you are going, the longer it will take you to stop if an animal runs into the road.

2.  Be especially cautious in spring and early summer when babies are first venturing out.  If you see an adult animal in or on the side of the road, there’s a good chance babies are nearby.  It is not uncommon for entire families of raccoons, skunks, and opossums to be killed by one or two cars.

3.  Be especially watchful at dusk, dawn, and the first few hours after dark when many animals are active and adjusting to different levels of light.

4.  A light tap on your horn can help warn an animal out of the way as you drive slowly by.

5.  Scan the sides of the road up ahead as you drive.  If you see movement, slow down.

6.  If you see something in the road, don’t assume “it’s nothing” or “it will move”.  Don’t just change lanes – drivers behind you may not slow down.  Remember that birds often cannot take off straight up and need room to get going and some animals freeze out of fear.

7.  Don’t toss food or food wrappers by the side of the road.  Not only is it unsightly, but such debris draws hungry animals to the roadside.

8.  If you do hit an animal, attempt to help to the best of your abilities.  Never leave and animal to die, but to not handle the animal because of a rabies risk.